Understanding Hallmarks: How We Assess the True Value of Your Jewellery

Understanding Hallmarks: How We Assess the True Value of Your Jewellery

At the core of our buying-in service lies something small but mighty: the hallmark. Whether you're parting with a family heirloom, a broken chain, or an unworn ring, knowing what the hallmark tells us is key to understanding your item’s true metal value.

In this blog post, we’ll take you through what hallmarks are, what they tell us about your jewellery, and why they matter when it comes to valuation.

What Is a Hallmark?

A hallmark is a government-approved stamp that certifies the type and purity of precious metal in an item. Hallmarking is legally required in the UK and many countries to ensure accuracy and protect both buyers and sellers.

It tells us:

  • Which metal the item is made from

  • How pure the metal is

  • Where and when it was tested and stamped

Hallmarks are especially important for jewellery made from gold, silver, platinum, or palladium — all of which are often alloyed with other metals for strength, colour, or cost.

Step 1: Locating the Hallmark

We start by inspecting the item under a jeweller’s loupe or magnifier. Common hallmark locations include:

  • Inside ring bands

  • Reverse of pendants

  • Clasp ends on chains and bracelets

  • Edges of bangles or brooches

Step 2: Interpreting the Hallmark

Most hallmark stamps include several elements that together give us a detailed picture of the item’s identity.

1. Metal Fineness Mark (Purity)

This number tells us what percentage of the item is made from pure precious metal.

Mark

Metal Type

Purity

375

9ct Gold

37.5% gold

585

14ct Gold

58.5% gold

750

18ct Gold

75% gold

916

22ct Gold

91.6% gold

999

24ct (Fine) Gold

99.9% gold

925

Sterling Silver

92.5% silver

958

Britannia Silver

95.8% silver

999

Fine Silver

99.9% silver

950

Platinum

95% platinum

999

Fine Platinum

99.9% platinum

500/950

Palladium (Various)

50% or 95% palladium


2. Traditional Fineness Symbols

Before the numeric system, traditional symbols were used to show metal type and purity. These may still appear alongside numbers:

Symbol

Meaning

Crown

Gold

Lion Passant

Sterling Silver

Britannia figure

Britannia Silver (958)

Orb & Cross

Platinum

Pallas Athena head

Palladium

3. Assay Office Mark

This tells you which UK Assay Office tested and hallmarked the item. There are four official Assay Offices in the UK, each with its own mark:

Mark

Assay Office

Anchor

Birmingham

Leopard’s Head

London

Rose

Sheffield

Castle

Edinburgh

Each of these offices has centuries of heritage in hallmarking and ensures strict quality control.

4. Date Letter Mark

Many hallmarks include a letter of the alphabet in a specific font and shape to represent the year the item was hallmarked.

  • The font and shape change every year in a 20–26 year cycle.

  • It's not always mandatory, but often included for vintage and antique jewellery.

For example:

  • A lowercase "d" in a specific shield might represent 1978, whereas a different style "d" could represent 2019.

  • This is especially helpful for dating family heirlooms or vintage pieces.

5. Sponsor's or Maker’s Mark

This is a unique stamp registered to the company or person who submitted the item for hallmarking — typically the manufacturer, designer, or retailer.

Example: "AB" in a rectangle might be the mark of a specific UK-based jewellery designer.

International Convention Hallmarks

If your jewellery was hallmarked outside the UK but is still legally recognised here, it may bear an International Convention mark. These marks are used by countries that are part of the Vienna Convention on the Control of Precious Metal Articles.

  • They use standardised symbols (e.g., scales with metal purity) and can include a numeric fineness mark.

  • Recognised in the UK, so you don’t need to re-hallmark an item from a Convention member country.

Are All Jewellery Items Hallmarked?

Not always. In the UK, there are exemptions for certain lightweight items:

Metal

Exempt if under...

Gold

1.0 gram

Silver

7.78 grams

Platinum

0.5 gram

Palladium

1.0 gram

So if a small earring, charm, or chain falls under these thresholds, it legally doesn’t need a hallmark — though many still do have one.

What If There's No Hallmark at All?

If a hallmark is missing or illegible, don’t worry. We can still test the item in-store using:

  • XRF (X-ray Fluorescence) Testing – for non-destructive, accurate analysis of metal content

This ensures that even unmarked or foreign pieces can be properly assessed.

At Gold Reserves, we’ve built our reputation on honesty, precision, and expertise. We take the time to evaluate your jewellery properly — whether it’s hallmarked or not — to give you an accurate, fair valuation based on current market rates.

If you’re thinking of selling gold, silver, platinum, or palladium jewellery, bring it in for a free, no-obligation appraisal today. We’ll walk you through every step — hallmark and all. You can also post us your jewellery for a no obligation price.

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